You did mention changing the U plates at the wing struts ends to thicker material. I checked with 7V10 plan and it called for .080" 4130 material. My early light weight version of CH701 already came with .080" thick at wing strut ends. Do I still need to change it for heavier load. I made a note of you suggestion somewhere but fail to find it.
G'day Adrian, Yes, that is the same plane you see see on my homepage picture. "Needed a bit of work" would be an understatement. There were some very serious deficiencies, as built. I bought it for parts to advance my own project, though labour wise it has cost me much more, the amount of dollars spent on materials has been less. The Perry road aircraft was built to 3rd edition 425 kg MTOW, whereas I was working on a 545 kg MTOW version of the 5th edition. The result is very much like grandads axe. The only skin I could not reuse was the lower rear fuselage. Hope to see you around some time. Cheers, Paul
nice to meet you here in this ZA dedicated website for builder. Oh, you knew capt siva? i guess, he is definitely a popular pilot through out the world. i only knew him past one year because EAA Malaysia that is led by him is our advisor on our building of ch750.
Yes, this ch750 building is sponsored by our university through research grant. I am just assisting the leader of the grant to build the airframe. so, we are building it part time, as you know, we have to do other works such as labs and admins stuff. We are also assisted by our students to build the airframe.
about the crashed of 9M-EEL, i havent heard about it crashing to a pole. capt siva only told me that the a/c is blown away by a gust from a sikorsky that resulting and upside down of the a/c. but the pilot is fine and still the a/c is still flying now.
how about you paul? did you buy the kit by yourself?
The front cradle around cabin must some how be quite firm to keep the wing roots from jumping off it.
I am up-grading my plane to 701 SP standard, except for landing gears. Fuselage is mostly done, while new wings remaining. I tore up the two old wings for rebuilding, only to find out that it could be easier and nicer to build them anew, with longer wings. There were times when I could almost see the completion date, before something got in the way.
I was OK with the light weight version, after beefing up a few areas. Then I had to open up wings to check fuel leak. After putting the wing tanks back in with new fuel lines, instead of installing the wing skins, I decided to build them anew. The old wings will be used for air flow experiment on ground only.
If you do not want to stop flying for the whole work, I suggest that you build wings to new standard. Then you can up grade the fuselage in steps. I have done it without splitting it apart. When you have the new and stronger main landing gear and big wheels, then it's time to stop flying to beef up the cockpit frame, re-work the nose gear and replace the main gear for the new weight limits.
Even without wing fold kit, you can make it in one trip if you make another plywood wing cradle straddling the cockpit. The part straddling fuselage will be wider, but the outside part where you put the wing, LE down, will be the same. Make sure that you tie down your rig well and move at safe speed.
Re: photos and drawings on wing fold in both Open Forum and CH 701 Forum.
With wing folding kit installed, after loosening nuts holding wings& wing struts and placing the wing cradle over the rear fuselage (straddling the dorsal fin), pull wing out toward wing tip, turning the LE down, and fold wing backward, placing each wing tip in the cradle.
To cut both slots left and right of cradle.
First, you trace the first 25 cm of wing outline, from LE toward TE on a piece of cardboard, or by using wire from wire coat-hanger. Then trace it on the plywood and cut to shape.
Now, if you have not installed the wing folding kit, you can take both wings off and place them on the inverted T wing cradle. Using 2X3 or 2 by 4 or 3 by 4 wood to make the cradle frame and finish it with seat belt like straps.
. This way, you take the wings on one trip and the rest of the plane on another.
Kor hai choke dee krub.
Here you are, Paul.
I use 20 mm plywood with car inner tube as liner where the wing leading edges will stay in the cradle.. First mistake is to cut the slot too tigh for the wing. Second is to cut the slot DOWN too much, causing the wing tip lights to push on the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer
I've towed my plane on a trailer for less than 2km to the airport, with a strap to keep both wing roots close to fuselage. On longer trip, I probably need a few more straps around the trailing edges and keep the flaperons from flapping.
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