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Painting (or polishing) your Zenith aircraft
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Comment by William McClain on March 26, 2017 at 8:54pm

I am nearly finished with the horizontal stabilizer/elevator and I find a small baggie with 5 AS-5 rivets. After a bit of research I find that these are steel rivets. No where in the instruction or the helpless videos that wasted $45 on say any thing about these rivets. Up on further research in the drawings I find where these rivets go. Now I am faced with drilling out the A5 rivets and leaving the back nubs inside the elevator to rattle around and putting the AS5 rivets in their place. I don't find this guessing game amusing and I question the quality of the instructions provided.

Comment by Bill Reid on March 20, 2017 at 8:29pm
I've noticed several projects for sale here - some close some far. I've been transporting aircraft for lots of years. I have sereval years with a variety of trucks and trailers. My 36 ft. Flatbed with GMC will haul everything up to medium twins with ease -$1.50 a mile loaded -- Buck a mile empty .
Comment by Gil DeVault on March 6, 2017 at 7:42am

I'm going with the old school mostly, but I thought I would use my ipad mini and FtPlan go backed up by my smart phone with A-efis and Avare. I haven't found a transponder yet, but plan to go with Nav Worx ADS 600 EXP, and I ordered the MGL V6 transceiver. I had made up my mind to buy Dynon 8" EFIS, for 3K but then read more and found out you have to spend another K on a box for it, so I said to heck with it. I also looked at the Talos for $600, and use a tablet, but they wanted almost 30 dollars to mail from Florida, when you can have one shipped from Greece for eight dollars! I think I would be happier with just a dual VOR, compass and the standard 6 pack, but I guess I need to expand my comfort zone with the times.

Comment by David Banahan on February 25, 2017 at 2:43pm


Like you I'm older and what I chose is full analog.  I put in Auto Meter,(Made in USA) engine instruments from Summitt Racing.  I chose UMA, (Made in USA) flight instruments except for altimeter because I need two needles.

I found used a Garmin (likely designed in USA and made elsewhere) 250XL(comm and GPS) and Garmin GTX 327 transponder both without wiring harnesses.

I'm far from done and I think I can finish the panel for around $2000-$2500.  I also fly daytime, VFR class D and below airspace and see little benefit to spending 4-6 times as much.

Comment by Gil DeVault on February 25, 2017 at 1:14pm

I'm old, learned to fly with VOR's and ADF. Now I'm at the stage of laying out my panel for my XL 601B. The EFIS is totally new to me, never actually seen one other than you tube. I'm not even sure about air spaces any more, but plan to take some ground school to catch up on that. What I don't want to do is invest a lot of money in something that doesn't give me the best bang for the buck, but I really don't know what to look for. Don't mind spending the money, but I don't want a panel I have trouble reading, or something I need a degree to understand. Will fly only as a Day Time VFR. Thanks   Gil

Comment by William McClain on February 19, 2017 at 6:40pm

I wish I could provide pictures but I have not received my first shipment of parts and tools. When using CLECOs one usually has a box of CLECOs which he/she would grab and hold the CLECO pliers in the other hand  while hold the pliers in the other hand they would grab the CLECO with the pliers prior to inserting into drilled hole. This is a two handed operation. To simplify the operation and free up one hand, I was instructed to: use a scrap piece og 2X4 wood and drill several 5/16" holes in the wood. line up the CLECOs that you will use in the holes. Now you only need to grab the CLECO with the pliers, squeeze and insert, a one handed process. Once I get things set up I will try to provide pictures.



Comment by Ray Toews on February 18, 2017 at 11:45pm
Can you clearer on that. Maybe a picture. Thanks
Comment by William McClain on February 18, 2017 at 6:15pm

Joined local EAA 268 last night. First night I got a good tip. Take a short length of 2X4 and drill several holes slightly larger that a CLECO in it. Put the CLECOs that you will need next into the holes. When trying to hold 2 or 3 pieces of metal together while tying to load a CLECO will make the job much easier.

Comment by Chet Lundy on February 12, 2017 at 11:11am

Flap motor in, flap weldmets in (not drilled) have to build wings first. Aileron stops installed. Re-install baggage floor next.

Comment by William McClain on February 11, 2017 at 7:57pm

Does anyone know if the 750 Cruzer can be flown with the doors removed?


Comment by Chet Lundy on December 27, 2016 at 5:29pm

What rivet pitch should be used for 65c3-9 rear canopy fairing to attach to turtle deck skin?

Comment by Ray Toews on August 28, 2016 at 1:05am

If you are scratch building a 601 I have a center section spar factory built.

$50 and you pay shipping from T0H 1N0

call or text seven 8 oh nine two six 7298

Comment by Lance Gobeil on August 24, 2016 at 11:52pm


Comment by Lance Gobeil on August 24, 2016 at 11:39am

Is there anyone in Oregon that has a650

Comment by Kurt Satter on June 6, 2016 at 4:40pm

Found the table on the last page of Build/Construction Manuals ... Section 1.

All are the same as for the 750 and the elevator UP is 32 +/- 2 degrees


Comment by Kurt Satter on June 6, 2016 at 3:12pm

I've been searching for the DEFLECTIONS table on the 701's control surfaces.  I don't see a page line in the 750's plans (75-ZA-7) ... Do we use the 750's deflections?

Rudder: 23 +/- 1 degrees\

Ailerons: 13 +/- 1 degrees

Flaps: 15 degrees

Elevator: down 28 +/- 2 degrees, up ???


Comment by ANDRE Duprez on March 28, 2016 at 12:24pm

Selling my Garmin GNS-430W WAAS System Com/Nav/GPS,great unit that was removed for a 530W and comes with the tray and backplate 

Asking USD $4500 

Comment by Todd Harris on March 14, 2016 at 9:18am
Sorry about the spelling errors in my last post Siri does not always know how to spell properly. Any idea where I could find what the proper tension is for the cables? Or the proper CG location for the aircraft.
Comment by Tracy Trathen on March 13, 2016 at 7:55pm
Mmmmmm. It never heard that they were pitch sensitive. My CH300 is rock solid.
It sounds to me like he had a balance problem. You will have to put the wings on and weigh the aircraft at each wheel and then do the math. Make sure it falls into the W&B envelope. As far as I know, all the CH series aircraft are very stable and predictable. Some Ch300 are nose heavy so the battery is installed behind the rear seat. Mine also has an 8 pound weight at the very back of the plane. Almost at the tail. Maybe his cables were not tight enough. It's very hard to say and who knows what HE means as pitch sensitive. You could say all planes are pitch sensitive. Nose up you climb and slow down. Noose down you speed up and descend. They are a good solid airplane in my opinion if the loading is correct.
Comment by Todd Harris on March 13, 2016 at 6:06pm
I'm looking for information on the CH250. I just purchased one with the intentions of stripping it to use the parts for my Long-EZ build. After looking over the airplane I have decided to give it a new life. It made a emergency landing and the trucking company that transported the aircraft cut the control cables to remove the wing. The pilot flying it also told me the aircraft was extremely pitch sensitive and felt like he was flying a Beachball! Is there a wait for counterweight in the tale that could cause that? Any information would be very helpful

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