David J. Dormer
  • Male
  • Catawissa, PA
  • United States
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David J. Dormer's Friends

  • Dr. Edward L. Olds III
  • A David NIxon
  • Steve Weston
 

David J. Dormer's Page

Profile Information

Aircraft Model
ZODIAC CH 650
Project Status
Just started
Building From
Kit
Building Experience
Have worked on airplanes before
Flying Experience
Private Pilot
Building and Flying Info / Your Profession / Other Background Info
Retired U.S. Army Chaplain

Comment Wall (3 comments)

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At 4:13pm on April 19, 2011, Dr. Edward L. Olds III said…

Dave,

Glad to have you as a friend, especially since you cary a Winchester.  This website has been a tremendous help in my building process.  Someone always has the answer.

Ed

At 8:37am on February 11, 2011, A David NIxon said…
Here's picture from below: 
At 8:36am on February 11, 2011, A David NIxon said…

Good morning, David. This is what I have sent to others regarding my push control rods:

Written May 2010 - 

I just really like my 601! I have attached a couple of pushrod pictures.  The long and the short of it, though is: I bought the 1 1/4 thick wall aluminum tube locally, had the rod ends turned locally to accept both Left and Right hand threads for the bearings.  I was told that if you put one Right thread and one left thread rod end bearing on the tube, you could fine tune it to the nnnth degree while all is hanging in place. That is true! You can. BUT, if one of the locking nuts loosens, then all bets are off.  If I was to do it again, I would use 2 right threaded rod end bearings with locking nuts and not worry about it anymore.  I have found that once the distance is set, there is no further need for adjustment. But that is just me.  
 
You might be able to see the additional rod bearing mounting plate.  That was to separate the rod ends from themselves.  Without the plate, they rubbed together. And I got grease fitting rod ends. I believe that sealed bearings would be just as good. My left side (pilot) hole thru the fuselage is pretty crude in the picture.  I didn't think thru the hole location thoroughly enough the first time. So I had to enlarge it "in place" with tin snips. Not too pretty.  A better solution would be to accurately measure where the fourth (or rear most) lightening hole is in that rear spar rib. And then transfer that info to the fuselage.  After the hole is cut, there is a clear channel right to the bellcrank.  I did nothing special at the bellcrank.  Just followed the plans.
 
 
 

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