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This is where the angle wouldn't have worked like the drawing showed. I placed the angle on the inbd side rather than the outbd side. Where would the rivets go?
Note I am short E.D. for a #5 rivet on rib #3. Because the doubler is not in this location and if you space the rivet on the outbd angle the same as the rest it will cause you to short yourself E.D. on this part. (these are #30 holes)
use a doubler like this to make sure you tie at least 2 ribs together. this will ensure that the ribs stay positioned for future reassembly.
noticed I marked the edge of the angle prior to drilling. This will ensure I will have plenty of E.D. on the angle.
drilling using a "drill cup" or bushing WILL SAVE you a Headache! there is ALOT of material to drill through and even I as long as I have done this CAN NOT drill a straight hole BY HAND through this much material. Start out with a #30 and then use a step drill if you have one.
My remody for fixing the short E.D. problem. Off-set drill 4 more holes. I later step the 4 hole to #21 and install #4 rivets and #5 rivets, solid that is.
I removed the doubler and installed #5 solids through this angle to make sure there wouldn't be any shop heads against the spar web.
This is a Cosdill Deburr or an "in-n-out" works great to deburr those hard to reach places.
Between the spar web and inner cap.
Use draw clecos where you can. They keep things tighter. MAKE SURE you clean all the swarf (drill shavings) out from inbetween the mating surfaces!!!!!!! Well that is it for now.....Until tomorrow!
Well it isn't exactly tomorrow! HAHAHA!
I finally got back to doing some more on the 601XL. Today I finished the trailing edge angles and the bottom skin angles.
The trailedge the only thing I need to comment on is the hole for the pushrod. Take the time and make it alittle more on the stretched side and clean all the edges nicely so there is no stress risers.
I did this because the pushrod had been hitting the dege of the hole and 'sawing at it'. I also toosed in a few more rivets.
As for the bracket "U" channel, when I removed the rivets, they almost fell out and I was alittle amazed that the bellcrank bracket had been installed with the pop rivets. So, not being the trusting soul I am in pop rivets, I installed the bellcrank supports in with solid MS20470AD5-5 rivets. Also, I noticed that when I tightened the nylok nut for the bellcrank, it got REALLY stiff. So, I will be replacing the undrilled bolt for a drilled boly and a castle nut with a cotter pin. Remember people, if you have a plane the rotates about a point and there isn't a Heimes joint or some sort-of bushing to keep the plane from becoming bound when the hardware is tightened, you need to stick a drilled bolt in with a castle nut so you can safety the bolt and nut from coming loose.
The other thing I did that wasn't in the drawings, is I tied the angles on the bottom skin to the adjacent rib. Why would you not? I could have taken the time and made a clip to tie it into the outbd rib, but I figured what I did was better than not doing it at all. All the airplanes I have ever worked on the stringers were tied into the ribs or bulkheads....why didn't this get done? ????
And for the most outbd angle I tied it to the rib and the wingtip.