John Waldrip
  • Male
  • Clute, TX
  • United States
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  • Samuel McNair
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John Waldrip's Discussions

Aeroflash Signal Strobe power supply (SOLD)

Started this discussion. Last reply by Michael radtke Jan 30. 8 Replies

I have two Aeroflash Strobe power supplies. They both were working when removed. I also have the housings for the nav/strobe lights. I believe the nav lights are ok but the strobe lights do not work.…Continue

Virtual Fuel Tanks

Started this discussion. Last reply by John Waldrip Nov 21, 2021. 2 Replies

Hello Everyone. Looking for some help. Is there anyone here that has a MGL Efis and has set up virtual fuel tank indicators. I have four fuel tanks. Adam set me up with a custom display to show the 4…Continue

Question about wiring tools

Started this discussion. Last reply by Samuel McNair Sep 13, 2020. 14 Replies

HI  I have a question about what tools do I need for wiring. I am planning a panel upgrade in the future. I'm collecting all the parts and tools I will need ahead of time. I have bought the hole…Continue

Question here about switches

Started this discussion. Last reply by John Waldrip Jun 24, 2020. 10 Replies

Hi Sometime in the future I will be updating my panel with MGL equipment. My question is about powering everything up. Should I have all radios and such on one switch or should you have multiple…Continue

 

John Waldrip's Page

Latest Activity

John Waldrip posted a discussion

Aeroflash Signal Strobe power supply

I have two Aeroflash Strobe power supplies. They both were working when removed. I also have the housings for the nav/strobe lights. I believe the nav lights are ok but the strobe lights do not work. Well one of them was working and one wasn't. Somebody make me an offer if you can use them for parts. …See More
Jan 28
John Waldrip posted a discussion

Virtual Fuel Tanks

Hello Everyone. Looking for some help. Is there anyone here that has a MGL Efis and has set up virtual fuel tank indicators. I have four fuel tanks. Adam set me up with a custom display to show the 4 tanks. I have two RDACs. But so far I have not much luck getting the fuel senders to register correctly. So maybe I can set up virtual tank using the flow meter. I have the red cube flow meter. But alas I have no idea what I'm doing or how to set it up to use flow. Any help appreciated.See More
Nov 21, 2021
John Waldrip posted a status
"Congrats to me. I are now a Pilot. Passed my Private Pilot Check ride today. !!!!!!"
Nov 12, 2021
Samuel McNair left a comment for John Waldrip
"John; the installation on my 801 was also a real dog. My first advice is to not rivet in anything until you have the entire system installed and every change you are going to have to make is done. Just use small screws and nuts, then later go back…"
Dec 8, 2020
John Waldrip posted photos
Dec 6, 2020
John Waldrip posted a discussion

Question about wiring tools

HI  I have a question about what tools do I need for wiring. I am planning a panel upgrade in the future. I'm collecting all the parts and tools I will need ahead of time. I have bought the hole knockouts for the 3/18 and 2 1/4 inch holes. I also bought a dimpler for flush riveting. Question is, what type of terminal crimper do I need to buy and where, (Aircraft Spruce) or somewhere else. Also I want to have some wire on  hand. What size , type of wire do I need?. And also terminals. Is there a…See More
Jun 29, 2020
John Waldrip posted a discussion

Question here about switches

Hi Sometime in the future I will be updating my panel with MGL equipment. My question is about powering everything up. Should I have all radios and such on one switch or should you have multiple switches, say one for radios , one for transponder, one for the glass panel, etc. What is the common way to do this. I currently have a master, nav, and one for the efis. Any help appreciated. See More
Jun 17, 2020
John Waldrip posted a discussion

Bird Nest

    I found a bird nest in my plane. I guess this is pretty common if the plane is outside. See More
Apr 18, 2020
John Waldrip posted a discussion

750 parts on a 801?

HiJust wondering if any parts from the 750 will fit the 801, such as dual control sticks. The strut fairings. Dual brake kit. Bubble windows?If anyone has first hand knowledge of any of these parts interchanging , I would be interested. Trying to not have to order from Canada if I don't have to. Don't want to mess with Customs and I would think the shipping would be quite a bit more, than from Mexico Mo.See More
Mar 4, 2020
Phillip Owens left a comment for John Waldrip
"Will be interested to see photos of your purchase, My 801 was sold to a person in your ares"
Feb 10, 2020

Profile Information

Aircraft Model
STOL CH 801
Project Status
Flying
Building From
Purchased finished aircraft
Engine installed (or plan to install)
Lycoming
Building Experience
No Experience
Flying Experience
Private Pilot
Building and Flying Info / Your Profession / Other Background Info
I just purchased a CH 801, Working on my PPL,SEL. Have Helicopter, Commercial, Instrument.
Home Airport (ie. KMYJ)
KLBX

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Comment Wall (2 comments)

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At 9:16am on December 8, 2020, Samuel McNair said…
John; the installation on my 801 was also a real dog. My first advice is to not rivet in anything until you have the entire system installed and every change you are going to have to make is done. Just use small screws and nuts, then later go back and rivet. It will save you a lot of rivet drilling, because nothing fits as advertised.

My stick bottomed out too, so I also had to move the brackets upwards. Ditto for drilling the stick to accommodate the wires. And you will have to make spacers for the grips since the dual sticks are smaller diameter than the singe stick.

The stick was too tall on both sides of the AC to easily throw your leg over getting in and out, so I shortened them. I made the one on the copilot side removable using a simple locking pin like you see in use on the 750's. There are times when its best to not have the copilot stick in place and easier to get passengers in and out if it is removable. But it creates jus a bit of looseness which is why the pilot side stick is bolted in.

After connecting up all of the controls, I found that the installation as provided resulted in smashing your knuckles into the panel or slamming the stick into your crotch well before the elevator reached full travel - even with the slightly shortened stick.

To correct for this, I moved the connection point of the push pull tube to the elevator bell crank inwards towards the pivot point about 1". To eliminate interference between he push pull tube and bell crank at this new connection point, I had to fabricate an offset bracket and bolt it to the end of the push pull tube. I suppose that you could also remove the bell crank and notch it to achieve the same end, bit I was not wanting to do anything irreversible. This offset required me to put a small bend in the push pull tube to stop it from rubbing the aircraft structure under the rear seat. All of this corrected the problem with range of motion of the stick fore and aft.

Concerning drilling the tube. I aligned and clamped all of my control surfaces, marked a lay line along the tube. Then installed the new tube, aligned the controls to the same neutral position, and drilled for the bolts with it all in place using a v block drilling guide to keep the holes vertical.

After about 450 hours of flight in this configuration, i noticed that the controls are very stiff in roll and as before very light in pitch. And looseness developed. What I have found is that the front plastic bearing block which supports the tube has worn due to the more excessive side forces that the individual sticks place on the tube as compared to the single center stick. In addition to introducing looseness this allows it to bind on the middle plastic support bearing. And the dual stick just don't provide the leverage in roll that the longer single center stick does. I am investigating replacing the front plastic bearing with a needle bearing or thin cross section ball bearing.

The second source of looseness is that the front seat based surface is too thin to withstand the lateral forces on the stick and it flexes where the horizontal triangular bracket attaches, eventually oil canning and flexing allowing the whole bracket to shift left and right with stick forces. So i am installing doublers on both seat fronts when I get back from this trip. if I don't I expect it will just get looser and soon crack. So just go ahead and reinforce this area to start with.

Yep, if you want the stick to clear the floor boards by a safe amount the rudder cables will just lightly touch the top of the dual stick cross tube, not an acceptable condition. I made 2 free floating plastic sleeves that fit over the cross over tubes. They rotate freely as they cables touch them and provide a renewable wear surface that isn't the cables. After 450 hours not a trace of wear on them. I made the sleeves out of the clear Lexan tubular covers for fluorescent light tubes at Lowes, Just cut 2 pieces, slit them,
At 10:01am on February 10, 2020, Phillip Owens said…

Will be interested to see photos of your purchase, My 801 was sold to a person in your ares

 
 
 

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