Comment

Comment by Jerry Bryan on March 2, 2010 at 10:27pm

Yes, I agree. I'm attaching a photo of the new 75F1-5. Notice the full flange. I can't copy what you did. I'm thinking of cutting the flange at the point where it ended before so it will bend.

Comment by Bob McDonald on March 2, 2010 at 5:57pm

While building at Can-Zac I worked on Angus Watts CH750 kit, which was ordered 2 weeks before mine and arrived 3 weeks before mine did. There were changes (for the better) by the factory in the parts in Angus's from the earlier version Lynn Thacker's "Catnip". My CH750 has changes in it making it better and easier to build than Angus Watts built only 3 weeks prior to mine. Presently Rick Fisyer's CH750 is nearing completion 3 weeks behind my kit and I could see changes in the kit and parts between his kit and mine. As more problems are encountered by builders in the field the factory fine tunes the parts in an genuine effort to make each CH750 kit better than the previous. Builders ordering their CH750 today are benifiting from the experiences of the builders before them. It only keeps getting better.

Comment by Jerry Bryan on March 2, 2010 at 5:27pm

Good advice about the metal. I'm glad I asked first. It's so obvious I didn't think. Thanks Bob.
FYI. Zenith redesigned 75F1-5. The flange is now full length.(It won't bend). You can put me in the same builder category as you.:>)
Thanks Bob.

Comment by Bob McDonald on March 2, 2010 at 4:56pm

The binding is caused by the mis-alighnment of the bearing nylon with the direction of travel of the torgue tube.
If you "ream" the nylon you will end up with the steel tube rubbing on the alumium 75F1-5. Call Zenith to check if they have any concerns before "reaming". I don't have enough experience building to offer any other suggestion with any certainty of the final result. I'm a pilot first..a builder by neccesity, and struggling not to become addicted to building. :>)

Comment by Jerry Bryan on March 2, 2010 at 11:04am

Bob,
One more question. Is there any reason you can think of not to slightly ream the bearing?
Thanks,

Comment by Bob McDonald on March 1, 2010 at 6:58am

Jerry

I drilled the 75F1-5 side "L" (rivet to sides of centre console) after I got the controls to move without binding.
You may have to move (tilt the top of 75F1-5) this bulk head rearward several inches from where it lines up with the console top rivet lines. This is why my console lid has an extra rivet line of "empty" holes filled with rivets. Cleco the bottom of 75F1-5 in and then move the top rearward and you might have to twist it side to side slightly... there is a "sweet spot" where the tube moves without binding.
There must be no paint in the nylon bearing area.

Comment by Jerry Bryan on February 28, 2010 at 10:39pm

Bob, I have been fighting this tight torque tube bearing off and on for weeks. I understand about the L on top but as it is fastened to the channel, how did you "move it back"? When My tube is resting on the floor it turns ok but when I raise it to insert in the fwd bearing, the bind increases until I can't turn it at all.
Thanks,
Jerry