As I prepare to order my kit I am looking at options for pulling the rivets.  

Specifically, the Stanley PB2500 that uses Dewalt batteries.

Do any of you expert builders have any experience with these and are they recommended or not recommended and why???

Thanks in advance,

Heath

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The rivets need a special domed head formed, Zenith sells the nosepiece that creates this for the Milwaukee gun.

So I would suggest that, each manufacture seems to have different sizes that may or may not fit. 

They also offer a service where they will drill the dome into a nosepiece you provide, but the Amazon gun I bought was too small for that. 

I haven't tried it myself, but I found a video showing how to make the head yourself with basic tools (no lathe required): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3V5n7ztdl4

Cheers

this is my video and the process works fine, I have seen a comment that the Milwaukee heads were to thin, but I also saw the response that it works fine you just can't machine to deep, but have not tried it myself on the milwaukee and have not looked at the Stanley but I suspect that if you are careful the modification can be done on any rivett nose. I believe also that if you send your rivett heads to Zenith they will machine them for a small cost

Great videos, Dan - thanks for making them!

Thank you, You are certainly welcome.

Yes, Dan, thank you for this video.

I'm about two weeks into my 750SD tail kit.  I've been using your video as a guide to machine my nose pieces as I need them.  Yesterday was the first time I had to pull some A6 rivets.  Threw the 3/16 nose into the drill and started to grind.  After fiddling with it half a hour or so of not being happy with the results I did a little search on this forum and realized that the A6 rivets don't need to be domed.  It was late at night and I should have given the A6 rivets a closer look and realized it myself.  Or just gone to bed.

One suggestion I will add is that I wrapped some electrical tape around the threads of the nose pieces before putting it into the drill.  It protects the threads a bit, but more importantly it prevents the filing bits from falling down the hole and into the chuck of the drill.

Here are links to a couple discussions that may be of interest to you:

Electric Pop Rivet Gun Options

Milwaukee Cordless M12 Rivet Tool

Mike

Hi all,

    i have the milwaukee m12 cordless riveter. love it. zenith sells machined heads for it. i keep the other heads that came with the gun for other riveting. 

no more compressor running or hoses.

peace and quiet. 

michael.

I've been around compressors most of my working days, I love the quiet of the Milwaukee, it's easy and light with no cord, if I brake this one i'd get another.   

Hey Heath!...Love my Milwaukee M12 cordless!! Only use the pneumatic for the larger rivets. I'm trying my best to break it before the warranty is expires, don't think I can!

Heath-

I found the Stanley PB2500 at Hansen Rivet Supply and BaySupply.com.  Wow, it's pricey!!!  $1,147 at Hansen's or $1,365 at Bay Supply.

The Milwaukee 2550-22 M12 Rivet Tool Kit is available on Amazon for $320. 

When comparing rivet guns, consider the length of the tool from the nose piece to the back of the tool.  Bay Supply says the PB2500 measures 12.875 inches (327.025mm).  That's BIG!  The size of the rivet gun might not be much of a factor when riveting the skins to the fuselage or wings; however, when riveting the wing structure or inside the fuselage cabin area, smaller is better.  When using the Milwaukee gun, it's real nice to be able to remove the stem catcher and reduce the size to 6-1/2 inches as shown in this picture:

just loaded a video sharing my opinion on rivet guns   https://youtu.be/LsISFznSlqk

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