My R/R connector burned last week and I have been doing a lot of research on this topic.  Has anyone changed their R/R from the factory supplied one to a "better" one like a Shindengen Mosfet?  I have exchanged emails with a Motorcycle guy who has sold several to kit plane builders with great success.  He was also a test pilot for another airplane manufacture for many years and knows our business.  He had to give me the obligatory "they are not designed for aircraft" but still spoke highly of them.  He recommended a 50-amp R/R even though I only have a 30-amp Stator as it will handle up to 50 amps and he says it will be easier on the Stator as well...Thoughts?

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I ordered the "Complete Mosfet Kit FH020AA DIY crimp or solder kit" listed on the home page at https://roadstercycle.com/index.htm.  The main part you want is the FH020AA Mosfet R/R to replace the ULPower provided one.  I chose the kit I purchased because it included plugs, wires, and wire connectors for the installation.

Thank you.

How has your RR performed so far?

I’m prepping for first flight but my voltage is reading a steady 14.9-15 volts and I can’t find the cause.  Ray Lawrence has been advising and I am trouble shooting with no results to date. I want to make sure it’s not an alternator issue before I order a Mosfet.

My R/R has performed so well that I have not even concerned myself with it since it was installed. Not sure why you are getting such a large voltage reading. Mine is always around 14.3 when running. Have you tried another voltmeter to ensure it is not that?

I still have the original RR that came from UL. Checked the connections but have to check phase to phase voltage to be sure it’s not the alternator causing the issue.

once that is done, I’ll be ordering up the FH020aa.

Any install hints would be appreciated. I plan on just getting the DYI connector kit as all my existing tefzel line should be good. I already replaced the original 12awg DC wires with 10 awg so they should match the new connectors.

That is exactly what I did. It was a very easy install. The only thing I did additional was add dielectric grease to the connectors. I check the connectors about twice a year and they are clean as new.

Did you keep the same mounting position and air blast set up as the original?

No I moved it to the firewall from the engine mount…see the picture below.

Duh, of course. 

Talked to Jack today. It sounds like we need a series type regulator, not a shunting type. The SH847 is the one he suggested. This morning on a flight out over the California/Arizona desert I came to the conclusion that what ever regulator-connector set-up I have it needed improvement. UL’s do not seem to run with dead batteries. I also noticed that drivers in this part of the world do not stop to ask pilots if they need help while the pilot is working on his plane along side of a busy road two lane road. In an hour of checking connections and fiddling with the engine with the cowling off, only one person stopped, a pilot naturally. 

The lack of charging may have been due to the connection, but I am ordering a new R/R with a stronger connection and a better chance avoiding future unscheduled landings. Dodging trucks with a dead engine while landing is not something I need to repeat. 

I am also thinking about adding an audio alarm to my D-120 panel. Realizing that I had a charging problem sooner could have had me landing at an airport instead of a highway. Any suggestions of how to go about it would be appreciated.

Ralph

N750RP

Ahh, the adventures continue!  Seriously, nice job getting it on the ground with no damage to anything/anybody.  Post a few pics of the new setup and process.  I suspect more UL Power owners will eventually be doing similar upgrade to the R/R.  It's kinda of on my list once the weather gets warmer.  

Here is a photo of my completed Reg/Rec install...

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