Online Community of Zenith Builders and Flyers
Tim, that looks like a clean install. For warmer weather you can just pull the heated elements and use normal cap screws on the baffles. Cap and secure the oil pan element lead. What is your plan for powering the plugs?
Tanis heating systems stay installed until engine overhaul. What is not shown is the power harness that connects all 5 heating elements to a NEMA 5-15 standard US 110 volt grounded male power plug. My flying club's Cessna 172's have the plug tie wrapped to the oil filler line and accessible via the oil filler/dip stick door. The power plug can also be flush mounted in front of cylinder 2 in the air box/baffles. I have not decided where I am going to mount the plug yet.
My Aviation Composites cowling is on order. Once I get the engine mounted, and the cowling fitted; then I worry about where the plug will go.
Tanis heating systems stay installed until engine overhaul
Tim, what am I missing here? The ram air box will need to be removed when doing mx service on the engine (i.e., cylinder head torque checks at 15, 100 and 200 hrs) are the heating elements also retaining the ram air boxes?
David, What I'm missing here? Yes. the heating elements will also be used to retain the airbox. So you are telling me that I'm going to be taking these out often.. Argh.
The airbox appears to be 3mm thick (0.093+0.025). The heating elements might need to be longer too.
UL added the doubler to the airbox because of cracking issues. I assumed Tanis accounted for the thickness. Maybe they'll be just fine as is. But yes, sorry to be the messenger, you will need to take them off a few times as you accumulate time on the engine. That's why I thought you would pull them and replace with original socket cap screws during the warm months. Are they difficult to remove?
I've made inquiries with Tanis about this.. Call it the learning curve that comes with being the alpha customer.