Today, I picked up my Jabiru 3300 at Jabiru USA in Shelbyville. (It's only 35 min west of me in my 206 ... and yes, the whole crate fits in the back of a 206!) I uncrated the engine this p.m. and there are two immediately obvious improvements! The prop extension flange necessary for the CH 750 is already factory-mounted on the engine. (You used to have to change it out yourself.) Also, you used to have to cut the corner off the right upper engine mount rubber bushing to get adequate clearance for the right ignition module. Apparently, they have changed the ignition module so it is well clear of the mount and no modifications are necessary!

I'll update this thread if I find further changes/improvements in the engine installation.

John

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Wonder if they are putting the same prop extension on the 2200's.  Changed one out once, it is a real pita.

Most of the changes to the 3300 are internal.  They are documented in the PDF Summary of Significant Engine Changes.

 

The above document and other current manuals are located on the Manuals page of the Jabiru Australia website.

 

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the additional information! I guess what I really meant by "improvements" are those that aid the builder by simplifying the engine installation. As Roger will probably attest, not having to change-out the prop extension saves a bunch of effort!

Of course, since this is a first-time install of the 3300 for me, the only baselines I have for comparison are the FWF instructions on the Jabiru website and the "HomeBuiltHelp" DVD. But, I'm glad to already see that the install is a little easier!

One other minor change I've noted different from the FWF instructions at Jabiru USA's website: the voltage regulator used to require purchasing an insulated terminal strip at Radio Shack to manage the wires. The regulator now comes with a 6-pin connector pre-wired. They also thoughtfully supply the female connector shell and terminals for the other side of the connection.

Regards,

John

 

The ignition module is probably clear of the engine mount because they've retarded the timing. Don't think this is much of an improvement unless you want a TP10141E legal spec 701 installation (derated to 100 hp) per the construction plans.

I remember what the timing retard did for my Cessna 150A and how much better it went when I was able to get the timing back to 28 deg. with the replacement cylinders STC.

 

Ralph

Ralph,

??????

I'm not sure what you mean by a legal spec 701 installation ... I'm discussing installing a Jabiru 3300 engine with a Jabiru USA FWF kit in a CH 750 airframe.

Anyhow, the 3300 has a breakerless transistorized ignition with the timing fixed @ 25 degrees. The engine is still rated at 120 hp @ 3300 rpm (although we know real-world that's not the rpm we're operating at! LOL! But that's another topic! ). When Pete and I looked at a recent engine being installed at Jabiru USA, it was obvious the clearance from the engine mount bushing was obtained by Jabiru incorporating a totally different ignition coil on the right side ... the lead coming out of the coil is more centrally mounted instead of offset to the right of the coil when looking at it from the right side of the engine. I "think" the hard point mounting of the coil is unchanged. There is now plenty of clearance of the lead from the rubber bushing - you don't have to cut the corner of the bushing off.

Not a big deal by any means, but it's just one less thing (modifiying the bushing) that you have to do.  To me, it's a pleasant surprise to find labor-saving changes! Like I said earlier, my only comparison is the information I could get from the DVD and the Jabiru USA website. Thought this information might be helpful to anyone contemplating utilizing this engine. Some of these "changes" might be old news - it's just the DVD and website haven't been updated to reflect them.

Regards,

John

Here is another improvement to the Jabiru engine line. Rotec, the folks who have developed a small radial engine in Australia, have developed a water cooled head system that bolts onto the Jabiru engine. Since the engine is infamous for high cylinder head temps, this is one solution. I just happened to get forwarded this link today, thought I would send it on to you Jabiru people for consideration. http://www.rotecengines.com/LCHdata/LCH.html I know it is more complication and more weight, but for someone who just cannot get their engine to run below destructive levels of head temps, this could be a cure.

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