Ed, I got the AeroLED's from Zenith and understand from talking with Roger that when positioned on the wingtips their angles of visibility is sufficient to make a tail light unnecessary. I called the AeroLED company for a wiring diagram and saw that a capacitor was a necessary component. They sent me two at no charge and I bought from them 50 feet of shielded 3-wire to run down the wing channel. (A fourth wire would be necessary if you want to have the flashes in sync.)The fiberglass wing tips don't have a flat enough surface for proper mounting, so I plan to use a little light weight filler (did I hear NAPA?)to flatten the mounting area. That's the view from Bend, OR.
Thanks for the information. I would not have thought about ordering a wiring diagram? Roger sold me some wire when I picked up the wing kit and I need to check that it is appropriate. I know it is not shielded and it isn't 3-wire. Does the company know that the wing tips they provide don't fit the lights they provide?
I've not called them about it, Ed, but will when I have results for my "solution." Other light options may have mountings that will pull the fiberglass flat, but I don't see how that would be possible with the AeroLED application. I'm not knowledgeable enough about molds and fiberglass to know if it would be a major problem to flatten the light mount area, but as long as the AeroLED is "marketed," there should be an acceptable surface without resorting to homegrown (NAPA) filler.
Roger said that the wire used for the trim motor would be acceptable for the wing light. In talking with Nate at AeroLED, he said there were several options, but that the very best (in his opinion) for this application was what he could supply. I sent him a check.
Thanks again for the update. I will probably go with the same option as you. I'm a bit of an old style guy, so I may opt for a tail light or some type of beacon too. You can't have too much light, for being seen?
I've been gone and not sure if I ever responded to your message? If not, sorry for the delay. I will probably go with the same plan, but I am going to add the taillight. I spent time in Phoenix and saw a few Zeniths and liked their systems.
I used the AeroLED's that option with the kit. You don't need the rear white light in the rudder with these lights. The LED light show white from the rear, red or green from the front and strobes to the side. Very nice pkg.
i got the exp version..longer one...didn't think you needed shielded wire because everything power supply etc is within the module..pretty slick...i think you only need 2 wires (not counting the ground)...a third if you want to sync the strobe...what's that about an additonal capacitor? thought everything in the module. think it is cheaper from zenith.
I ran into the same mounting problem with the surface not being pefectly flat. However, I think a bead of silicone caulk will solve the issue just fine when it's time to paint. It's only off about maybe 1 or 2 mm. On the wiring, I bought 50' of jacketed shielded 3 wire 18 ga from a local electrical supply house. $32 worth. I grounded my light to a lug riveted to the spar, and tested it with a 9V battery like the HomebuiltHelp video shows. Works great, very bright.
Jimmy (and others), I would like to remind you that aircraft grade wire is expensive but there are good reasons to use it in aircraft. Automotive wire and electrical supply house wire are conveniently available, cost you less and do carry electricity, but they lack several characteristics of the aircraft stuff. The most important is that the Tefzel insulation jacket does not give off poisonous fumes in a fire. You can stop a car and jump out of it right away, you can leave the room a computer is burning in, you can evacuate the house or office with an electrical fire. You need to ride the airplane all the way down and get it stopped before you can get out of it, you cannot escape the fumes. Aircraft grade wire is also lighter, more flexible and tougher, all good virtues in an aircraft.
As far as the uneven fiberglass mounting surface, sometimes that can be pulled into shape by putting a metal plate (shaped like the base of the light or whatever that you are mounting) on the inside face of the fiberglass. Now you will have the fiberglass sandwiched between the mounting base on the outside and the metal plate on the inside and it all pulls together very nicely. This also spreads the mounting force out on the fiberglass, which helps. Sometimes you will have the nut on the inside just pull through the thin fiberglass after a few months or years. That inside plate acts as a huge washer and spreads the mounting force around on the thin fiberglass to prevent the pull-through.
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