Ok, so I got the "upgrade" kit Monday. Already had started to drill things apart and had it ready so I could inventory and start locating and installing the kit. A few things I have to say first off, well packed, marked and nice quality of the metal and hardware. But, after studying the drawings a bit I was a little confused, to say the least, on what part went where. I went to school and got an ASS degree in CADD and have been an A&P for 20 yrs. I currently work at a FAA certified Repair station and have made many drawings for 2 STCs and multiple repairs. I could be me but I found the drawings a little confusing and VERY busy. Also, the parts are listed in a "description" form to the left and then in the assembly drawing and details they are referred to as a part number. (same thing with the guide) My thoughts and Input.....be consistent and use a p/n ONLY or description ONLY not a mix. Also, WAY TOO MUCH information on ONE (1) sheet! HOLY COW! break it up a little! use one sheet for one item or task. That way it isn't so overwhelming and someone doesn't miss anything. I spend more time try to figure out the drawing and what it is trying to tell me. Also you need to include things like, "DO NOT INSTALL RIVETS IN THESE LOCATIONS" for the area where the doubler is going along the spar cap. "MARK EDGE OF PART TO ENSURE PROPER EDGE DISTANCE" "#3 RIB ANGLE WILL BE SHORT E.D. IF OUTSIDE ANGLE IS MARKED IN SAME MANNER AS #1 & #2 RIB" "USE A CHIP CHASER/BURR HOOK TO REMOVE CHIPS FROM BETWEEN SANDWICHED MATERIALS BEFORE RIVETING" "USE A DRILL BUSHING TO ENSURE PERPENDICULARITY IS MAINTAINED WHEN DRILLING THROUGH THE SPAR AND CAP" do not say in guide "locate angles on #3 and #4 ribs (if wing has 4 ribs) the same as #1 & #2" when you don't give the materials to do rib #4.

This is where the angle wouldn't have worked like the drawing showed. I placed the angle on the inbd side rather than the outbd side. Where would the rivets go?

Note I am short E.D. for a #5 rivet on rib #3. Because the doubler is not in this location and if you space the rivet on the outbd angle the same as the rest it will cause you to short yourself E.D. on this part. (these are #30 holes)

use a doubler like this to make sure you tie at least 2 ribs together. this will ensure that the ribs stay positioned for future reassembly.

noticed I marked the edge of the angle prior to drilling. This will ensure I will have plenty of E.D. on the angle.

drilling using a "drill cup" or bushing WILL SAVE you a Headache! there is ALOT of material to drill through and even I as long as I have done this CAN NOT drill a straight hole BY HAND through this much material. Start out with a #30 and then use a step drill if you have one.

My remody for fixing the short E.D. problem. Off-set drill 4 more holes. I later step the 4 hole to #21 and install #4 rivets and #5 rivets, solid that is.

I removed the doubler and installed #5 solids through this angle to make sure there wouldn't be any shop heads against the spar web.

This is a Cosdill Deburr or an "in-n-out" works great to deburr those hard to reach places.

Between the spar web and inner cap.

Use draw clecos where you can. They keep things tighter. MAKE SURE you clean all the swarf (drill shavings) out from inbetween the mating surfaces!!!!!!! Well that is it for now.....Until tomorrow!

Views: 462

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Moved from my blog...I don't know how this website works and if everyone is able to see "My blog" or not.
Thanks Tim
Lots of good info!
Keep up the good work
Since I got a response on my blog about people not having access to certain tools I got to thinking what I have extra, so I did some digging and found some extra Cogsdill deburrs the I had purchased at Boeing Surplus years ago. I was selling stuff on Ebay and had these left over. So what you are looking at ar 3 sets (#1) of deburrs. .156", .187", .250"; then there is a set (#2) with .156", .250" and a hand deburr; then there is 3 .250" (#3) ---I will sell the first 3 sets (#1) for $40 US each----(#2) for$30 and $15 each for (#3). These are used but to buy them new you would pay $45 each or more. These will aid in you deburring the inside holes where you can't reach. You can either email me or call me to arrange payment and delivery.

Here is another trick. Don't have a burr hook or chip chaser? Try this. Take a peice of metal steel banding (the thinner the better) and shape and DEBURR like a hook. You can either put a handle on it (wood, plastic or aluminum) or use it with out one (make sure you have the bandaids handy if you do this). and you are on your way to chasing the swarf!

BTW...Thanks Peter!

RSS

New from Zenith:

Zenith Planes For Sale 
 

Classified listing for buying or selling your Zenith building or flying related stuff...


Custom Instrument Panels
for your Zenith
:

Custom instrument panels are now available directly from Zenith Aircraft Company exclusively for Zenith builders and owners. Pre-cut panel, Dynon and Garmin avionics, and more.


Zenith Homecoming Tee:


Zenair Floats


Flying On Your Own Wings:
A Complete Guide to Understanding Light Airplane Design, by Chris Heintz


Builder & Pilot Supplies:

Aircraft Insurance:

 
 

West Coast USA:

 
Pro Builder Assistance:

 

Transition training:

Lavion Aero

K&S Aviation Services

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty for all your building and pilot supplies!

How to videos from HomebuiltHELP.com

Developed specifically for Zenith builders (by a builder) these videos on DVD are a great help in building your own kit plane by providing practical hands-on construction information. Visit HomebuiltHelp.com for the latest DVD titles.

© 2024   Created by Zenith.Aero.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service