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Top rear. Right near the oil adapter.
That's just the case, though. They're all more or less the same. The interesting numbers are on the heads.
Well, for a WW conversion, he is adamant about the case number - that's the only way you'll know if it has the 8409 forged crank in it. Ernest gives the correct location. They're not all the same; some have "smog innards" etc., that contain a cast crank. Some are acceptable with the crank but will need new heads as was noted already. Get his rebuild manual and it outlines all of the valid, less desired but still valid numbers, and those to avoid completely.
RD, RF, RH, RX, RK, RA, RJ, RE, and RG are acceptable codes and all parts are good.
RS, RU, RV, RW, AC, AD, AE, QM and QO have a good crank, but not so good heads.
YN, YM, ZF, ZG, YC, YL, Z, ZH, ZD, W, WA, VA may or may not have a forged crank - you have to open up to see.
Are there any cases to avoid? I don't have the WW manual, yet, but I found a YN case and crank for cheap locally. The crank is a short stroke, and rusted, but the block looks good. Is $85 reasonable for a usable case?
Where are you at, Ian? If you're just getting started on your build, I've got a now abandoned engine that will have most of they parts you'll want.
I'm in Oregon. I'm sure shipping would be ridiculous. I'm interested though.
Look for the number on the crank. You want the 8409 crank. How rusted? As in, able to be cleaned up? It would help to know the displacement since Wm notes that a YN could be either 164 or 145 cubes. If an 8409 crank you’re good. Personally without the crank I’d pass.
If earnest has has a good engine, you could probably ship on a tire on an old pallet for about $200.
It's tagged as a 145Cid, so the crank is unusable anyway.