Thanks for the reply Jerry. I have started on the 650 and plan to use the 350i. I picked
up the kit last week and Roger also indicated that he felt the 350i was enough engine.
I am mostly retired and am building another plane for the enjoyment of building and will
probably sell it - not wanting fuel to be an issue.
Thanks again,
Robert
At 12:21am on December 14, 2018, Jerold Ebke said…
Robert
I am satisfied with the horsepower of the 350i in my 650.
Both my wife and I are not large people so we can put 30 gallons of fuel along with 50 or so pounds of luggage and have good performance.
Living in the flat Midwest helps.
I chose the 350i for the reason you express. No access to 93 octane, but if I new I could have been OK with 91 in the 350iS, I would have certainly opted for more HP for only a few dollars more.
It’s hard to ever have enough HP .
Back to answer your question. Again, I feel 350i is more than adequate for the 650 if flown within its weight limits and not crossing mountain passes at summer temps, though I do hope to try going west in the future.
Jerry
Jerry
The gear in the most forward position moved the final distance from the datum (leading edge at the 4th rib) 5.75 inches more forward which took 100 lbs off the nose gear to the mains.(will vary w engine choice) This really helps when you rotate. Prior to reversal you still had to pull the nose off the ground and when landing you could not keep the nose wheel up without adding power. Much better especially on grass strips. Tail of aircraft sits approx 6 inches lower while on the ground which is below level.
Canopy Bow//
Jerry, I have a 601XL-B. During construction I had to make a canopy adjusement due to minimal edge clearance for the 5/16 inch drilled mounting holes. I used 1/2 inch rolled copper plumbing tubing to make the initial curves that were necessary to get the fit then bent the aluminium bow to match that in the shop.
Hi Jerry. I started with plans. I have only bought parts that are too big for my brake to handle or too complex. I have done all my own welding on everything but the top engine mount. I have half on the center spar fixed. I need a new back web as the first one came out too tall. I have found a bunch of mistakes in the plans. Not having a kit I don't know how much it is affected by them. Did you find many problems with fit and measurements?
Jerry, I'm going to do one more ground test, warm the engine up, test the mags and let it run at idle. I need to get it off the ground to test cooling, it should get better ...
Jerold
the ul260i looks like a nice engine. But it is only 95 hp. After 6 years of flying I wish I had more power anf toque. Climbing is everything. I am going to change from the subaru to a 0235 Lycoming.
Dave
Jerry, I'll make sure I take some extra pictures of the brake lines. I don't have the seat bottoms re-installed and I wouldn't put them in until after you rig the aileron cables.
Jerry, I've been meaning to thank you for starting the torque tube bearing discussion. I was just starting to put stuff back together and it was an issue that needed to be addressed. I can feel the difference using the nylon. I'm going to add a 1/16" nylon shim/bearing between the stop ring and metal bearing, but that can be done later since it is just a matter of removing the stop ring. I'm using the center Y stick, not sure of the setup for dual sticks.
Nyloil is probably a better choice, I need to get ready for the inspection. It's been almost 5 years.
I was just reading Doug's comment on brake lines, he's describing what I did for my gun drilled Grove gear. Let me know if you want some pictures.
Jerry, when I installed the gear there was little guidance and no brackets from Zenair, so I had to weld some rods to the bracket. I chose to mount the gear flat side back set to the rear. My logic was to keep the plane from tipping back when stepping up. There was a discussion recently Click Here.
Some have said that with a heavy engine to mount the gear to the rear and to the front with a Jabiru/Rotax. But things have changed with the Upgrade, we are adding 20+ pounds in front of the gear, so it might be that the flat side back to the rear is now the better solution. Does that make sense?
I should be flying in a few weeks and can give you an update. You have the flexibility to temporarily mount the gear and work on other stuff, instrument panel, etc.
You're in a good spot in the building process, not having to pull the Center Spar. Have you built the wings? I'm glad you enjoyed watching the Upgrade process, there were some very difficult days and I hope I have saved others some grief.
Jake
At 12:43am on September 6, 2009, Larry Whitlow said…
Hi Jerry
Thanks for the kind words. OK I have to admit I'm a television engineer so electronics are kinda a do it with my eyes closed thing, BUTTTTTT.....
You can do it!!!! Trust me if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!! the best advice is can give you is to make a diagram before you put one wire in the plane. I made and excel sheet showing every from / to connection and I put a number on every wire so i could look it up later when i forgot what is was for. Don't let it scare you one bit make a connection and test as you go.
I made all of the multi pin connectors with long tails and labeled wires before I tried to put anything in the plane. Then is just becomes a matter of following the chart you made!!!
The manufacturers provide harnesses for most of their gear GET THEM Saves hours of grief!!!
I cant say it strong enough if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!!
Jerry, I thought I was going to be able to go, but my schedule interfered. So unfortunately I didn't make it, even though my work travel placed me just 50 miles away. Bummer.
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Landed at your airport yesterday - nice airport with great taxiway! Really good to be back in the plane after a nasty Winter...
Thanks for the reply Jerry. I have started on the 650 and plan to use the 350i. I picked
up the kit last week and Roger also indicated that he felt the 350i was enough engine.
I am mostly retired and am building another plane for the enjoyment of building and will
probably sell it - not wanting fuel to be an issue.
Thanks again,
Robert
I am satisfied with the horsepower of the 350i in my 650.
Both my wife and I are not large people so we can put 30 gallons of fuel along with 50 or so pounds of luggage and have good performance.
Living in the flat Midwest helps.
I chose the 350i for the reason you express. No access to 93 octane, but if I new I could have been OK with 91 in the 350iS, I would have certainly opted for more HP for only a few dollars more.
It’s hard to ever have enough HP .
Back to answer your question. Again, I feel 350i is more than adequate for the 650 if flown within its weight limits and not crossing mountain passes at summer temps, though I do hope to try going west in the future.
Jerry
Hi Jerold,
Would just like to get your opinion? I live at Wamego, KS which is near Manhattan,
and talked to you at the Zenith fly-in in September. You really did a great job on your
plane and I’m just curious if you are satisfied with the power of the 350i? I built a stol
750 last year and installed the 350is engine and, with 75 hours on it, I love the power,
but am running 91 octane fuel because I can’t get 93 octane around here. Anyway,
I am picking up a 650 kit next week which I plan to take a couple years to build and
hope to make it look as good as yours, fly the 40 hours off, sell it and maybe recoup
me investment. The fuel issue is why I am considering the 350i and assuming it still
has good power for that plane. Would really appreciate your opinion.
Robert
Jerry,
Did you get your flap bearings installed? I am ready to do mine. Could you send some pics of the alignment and install? And, any measurements?
Thanks,
Jim Snyder
All parts came from Aircraft Spruce.
Here are some pictures.
Steve
The gear in the most forward position moved the final distance from the datum (leading edge at the 4th rib) 5.75 inches more forward which took 100 lbs off the nose gear to the mains.(will vary w engine choice) This really helps when you rotate. Prior to reversal you still had to pull the nose off the ground and when landing you could not keep the nose wheel up without adding power. Much better especially on grass strips. Tail of aircraft sits approx 6 inches lower while on the ground which is below level.
Jerry, I have a 601XL-B. During construction I had to make a canopy adjusement due to minimal edge clearance for the 5/16 inch drilled mounting holes. I used 1/2 inch rolled copper plumbing tubing to make the initial curves that were necessary to get the fit then bent the aluminium bow to match that in the shop.
Gary Ray
Ken
Jake
Where are you located?
the ul260i looks like a nice engine. But it is only 95 hp. After 6 years of flying I wish I had more power anf toque. Climbing is everything. I am going to change from the subaru to a 0235 Lycoming.
Dave
I dont get on this page very often. How far along are you with your 650? Have you decided what engine you will be using?
jake
Nyloil is probably a better choice, I need to get ready for the inspection. It's been almost 5 years.
I was just reading Doug's comment on brake lines, he's describing what I did for my gun drilled Grove gear. Let me know if you want some pictures.
jake
Some have said that with a heavy engine to mount the gear to the rear and to the front with a Jabiru/Rotax. But things have changed with the Upgrade, we are adding 20+ pounds in front of the gear, so it might be that the flat side back to the rear is now the better solution. Does that make sense?
I should be flying in a few weeks and can give you an update. You have the flexibility to temporarily mount the gear and work on other stuff, instrument panel, etc.
You're in a good spot in the building process, not having to pull the Center Spar. Have you built the wings? I'm glad you enjoyed watching the Upgrade process, there were some very difficult days and I hope I have saved others some grief.
Jake
Thanks for the kind words. OK I have to admit I'm a television engineer so electronics are kinda a do it with my eyes closed thing, BUTTTTTT.....
You can do it!!!! Trust me if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!! the best advice is can give you is to make a diagram before you put one wire in the plane. I made and excel sheet showing every from / to connection and I put a number on every wire so i could look it up later when i forgot what is was for. Don't let it scare you one bit make a connection and test as you go.
I made all of the multi pin connectors with long tails and labeled wires before I tried to put anything in the plane. Then is just becomes a matter of following the chart you made!!!
The manufacturers provide harnesses for most of their gear GET THEM Saves hours of grief!!!
I cant say it strong enough if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!!
Larry
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