The move to the airport is a milestone! It won’t be long now and you will be able to enjoy the fruits of your labour. These planes fly great so I think you will be thrilled with your choice to build this airplane. Good luck on your completion and let’s keep in touch.
Thanks and good to hear from you, Ron! You ought to be getting into that "90% done, 90% left to go" phase by now! Haha! How is it going? I need to pop up and visit again - always looking for somewhere to fly!
No that wasn’t me (I can’t remember who said they were going to try a limiter cable but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.) We found that we don’t need the limiting rod. The spring works well without. As a point of reference, it is my friend who has the Viking spring. I have decided to stay with the bungee unless I have longevity problems like some of the other guys.
Hi Ron, in case I didn't answer this, here's a new picture of the teflon lines I installed in place of the rigid. I needed some give when reinstalling the valve, and these worked out much better, Make sure you get the banjo type fittings designed for the valve, these are not tapered pipe thread and you need the banjo fitting to make the 90 degree turn, not the elbows I have.
The front fitting goes to a bulkhead fitting on the floor and then underneath to the front.
And here's a picture that shows the seat pan and brackets
Yea, the rubber lines kinda scare me, and that whole deal of replacing them every five years, not my idea of user friendly, that being said the abrasion resistance and "streatchability" of rubber along with the low cost of the line and fittings does give the idea some merit.
How has the Corvair been? I have two core engines coming and have been in discussions with Corvair SPA regarding their 3.3litre upcoming engine!! pretty darned excited to finally start something I've spent years researching....
If its appropriate to add a fellow Corvair user as a friend, I will do so!!
I'm very new to the social media world!
MWM
At 4:03pm on September 3, 2015, Paul Sanders said…
Hi Ron, I'm sorry to say I haven't looked at how to install the V1 fuel selector yet. You may have seen from my posts that I know nothing about this building thing and that extends to the engine side of things too. I'm going to be getting some friends to help put the engine on and plumb fuel lines and at that point they will look at the selector and hopefully know what to do.
Sorry not to be of any help... I do know there are people on here with that in their 750, might be worth a forum post asking for hints? - Paul
Hi Ron, Good luck with the corvair build, it is still on my short list for engines. Safe travels to the open house this fall and hope to see you there!
At 7:45pm on September 25, 2014, Clint L Gosch said…
Hi Ron, How is your build going?
At 9:03am on September 15, 2014, John Austin said…
Yes, I'm flying-in my 750 from East Tennessee. See you there!
At 6:47am on September 15, 2014, John Austin said…
The main wing VG's are Stolspeed. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce and will need the larger kit for a 750. The tail VG's are the ones Zenith sells.
My plane was painted with DuPont "Nason" paint - I believe it is a catalyzed urethane paint and doesn't need a clear coat.
Hi Ron, I did not run any wire, going for day VFR only for now. The powerburst looks like a nice unit! If I decide to add lights later, it will be on my short list. 20awg seems small for the length needed, their chart is not exactly intuitive is it? I calculated a 1vdc drop at the load using the peak current (worst case), so technically it will work, but if I were installing it I'd go for 16 or 18awg for the power lines and the return, the sync line can easily be 20awg. I'm not sure if you need shielded with an LED strobe, I would think a low voltage LED driver would cause a lot less interference than a traditional strobe. I'd probably try it with standard wire. Hope this helps!
At 10:43pm on September 30, 2013, Clint L Gosch said…
Hi Ronald, I did loosly mount the c frame to the riser. I placed the riser in the middle of my work table and moved the spar along it, but I can see where moving the riser could be advantageous. My fuel tanks follow the long range tank plans I bought from ZA, only mods done were to allow extra material on the front of the tank and flanges of the end caps to allow a greater sealing surface for my riveted tanks, I think I ended up with 19mm flanges, I plan to use proseal for sealant and a 20mm pitch using 1/8" solid rivets. For my spars I layed out all my rivet holes on the web and drilled to #40, cut lightening holes and flanged, then attached my caps using a bunch of 1" c clamps, when I was sure my spar height was correct I drilled through the web into the caps using a #40 and a drill press, updrilled one size at a time to reach #20 with the drill press. Sorry for the long response, let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck with your project! Looks great so far!
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Hi Ron! Thanks for the comments on my recent post. You'll have your plane flying sooner than you think! Good luck and keep me updated!
Hi Ron,
The move to the airport is a milestone! It won’t be long now and you will be able to enjoy the fruits of your labour. These planes fly great so I think you will be thrilled with your choice to build this airplane. Good luck on your completion and let’s keep in touch.
Cheers,
Joe
Thanks and good to hear from you, Ron! You ought to be getting into that "90% done, 90% left to go" phase by now! Haha! How is it going? I need to pop up and visit again - always looking for somewhere to fly!
Regards,
John
Hi Ron,
No that wasn’t me (I can’t remember who said they were going to try a limiter cable but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.) We found that we don’t need the limiting rod. The spring works well without. As a point of reference, it is my friend who has the Viking spring. I have decided to stay with the bungee unless I have longevity problems like some of the other guys.
Cheers,
Joe
mine is mmallock@yahoo.ca
Hi Ron, in case I didn't answer this, here's a new picture of the teflon lines I installed in place of the rigid. I needed some give when reinstalling the valve, and these worked out much better, Make sure you get the banjo type fittings designed for the valve, these are not tapered pipe thread and you need the banjo fitting to make the 90 degree turn, not the elbows I have.
The front fitting goes to a bulkhead fitting on the floor and then underneath to the front.
And here's a picture that shows the seat pan and brackets
Hey Ron, I just your post, did I ever get back to you? I hope so, but I don't remember seeing this.
Walt
Thank you for the reply Ronald!
Yea, the rubber lines kinda scare me, and that whole deal of replacing them every five years, not my idea of user friendly, that being said the abrasion resistance and "streatchability" of rubber along with the low cost of the line and fittings does give the idea some merit.
How has the Corvair been? I have two core engines coming and have been in discussions with Corvair SPA regarding their 3.3litre upcoming engine!! pretty darned excited to finally start something I've spent years researching....
If its appropriate to add a fellow Corvair user as a friend, I will do so!!
I'm very new to the social media world!
MWM
Sorry not to be of any help... I do know there are people on here with that in their 750, might be worth a forum post asking for hints? - Paul
Hi Ron, Good luck with the corvair build, it is still on my short list for engines. Safe travels to the open house this fall and hope to see you there!
Hi Ron, How is your build going?
Yes, I'm flying-in my 750 from East Tennessee. See you there!
The main wing VG's are Stolspeed. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce and will need the larger kit for a 750. The tail VG's are the ones Zenith sells.
My plane was painted with DuPont "Nason" paint - I believe it is a catalyzed urethane paint and doesn't need a clear coat.
Regards, John
Hi Ron, I did not run any wire, going for day VFR only for now. The powerburst looks like a nice unit! If I decide to add lights later, it will be on my short list. 20awg seems small for the length needed, their chart is not exactly intuitive is it? I calculated a 1vdc drop at the load using the peak current (worst case), so technically it will work, but if I were installing it I'd go for 16 or 18awg for the power lines and the return, the sync line can easily be 20awg. I'm not sure if you need shielded with an LED strobe, I would think a low voltage LED driver would cause a lot less interference than a traditional strobe. I'd probably try it with standard wire. Hope this helps!
Hi Ronald, I did loosly mount the c frame to the riser. I placed the riser in the middle of my work table and moved the spar along it, but I can see where moving the riser could be advantageous. My fuel tanks follow the long range tank plans I bought from ZA, only mods done were to allow extra material on the front of the tank and flanges of the end caps to allow a greater sealing surface for my riveted tanks, I think I ended up with 19mm flanges, I plan to use proseal for sealant and a 20mm pitch using 1/8" solid rivets. For my spars I layed out all my rivet holes on the web and drilled to #40, cut lightening holes and flanged, then attached my caps using a bunch of 1" c clamps, when I was sure my spar height was correct I drilled through the web into the caps using a #40 and a drill press, updrilled one size at a time to reach #20 with the drill press. Sorry for the long response, let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck with your project! Looks great so far!
I am very pleased with the trim. I use it constantly. Some people wanted me to make it larger but it wasn't necessary. Thanks for the paint comments.
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