I read your blog entries about your original Jabiru 3300 engine, and the rebuild process, with great interest. I then noticed that it appears you swapped out that engine and put in a newer CAMIT built version of the Jabiru 3300. If so, I was curious if you’d be willing to share what ultimately caused that change and how the newer CAMIT Jab3300 has been performing for you? I know that CAMIT is now defunct, regrettably; however, If you were building another aircraft similar to your 601, would you buy another current generation 4 Jabiru 3300 for it?
At present, my top three engine choices for my 750 Cruzer are (in order):
(1) Jabiru 3300 (120 hp)
(2) AeroMomentum AM15 (137 hp version)
(3) UL Power 350i (118 hp)
I love the idea of the simplicity of the Jabiru 3300 engine, especially its independence from requiring a battery/power source for its ignition system and it’s engine driven mechanical fuel pump, But, as I also live in the Midwest, having a liquid cooled engine that’s an auto conversion is appealing, because it would provide effective heat for me in the cockpit, and it would be more tolerant of being started after sitting in the cold hanger overnight... plus it is content to run on 91 octane auto fuel.
Sure appreciate any comments or insight you care to offer. Thank you very much!
Hey Steve; I have ten hours on her know and have had a few squawks to resolve but she is flying good. Did a trip to Lampson and Ukiah today which was pretty positive. I'm learning there is also a lot of anxiety that goes along with phase 1!
We do seem to be like minded pilots. Every time I jump in my plane I make sure I go somewhere different. Long way to catch up on you tho...I also don't use a camera very often.
Australia is a great place to fly around. Huge country, great people. No where near as many airports as usa so planning requires a lot more care. Best time of year is usually June to August or so to fly around. Bit cooler and less turbulent.
You won't be able to hire a 601, but a similar factory built plane.....Technam or Sportstar etc....But yes, great place, you will be very welcome down under mate...
A follow-up on the plugs, Steve. The "factory" gaps seemed to be about .030, so I left them "as-is" and installed them. They definitely helped my radio reception rf noise ... sort of! Before, I had an "ignition" noise accompanying weak receptions that definitely varied with rpm. It was equal on both mags. After installing the NGK DR9EIX plugs, the right mag was completely quiet, but the left sounded about the same! Looking closely at the mags, the right's lead says "7mm high temperature suppressive", the left says "Electra Cable ECA 7". Looks like the cables are from two different vendors - wonder if that left on is not suppressed? I put 4 ferrite beads on it and it is quieter but not completely quiet like the right. Now I'm wondering if it is possible to change out that mag lead to a quality rf suppression cable?
Thanks for the info on the Iridium plugs. I'll see what the "factory" gaps are when I get them and go from there.
By the way, how did the "reverse flow" sump cooler work out on your plane? If I understand correctly, you made an opening above your oil cooler and let the high pressure air reverse direction and flow up the sump fins towards the prop hub. I've got marginal oil temps at high rpms in my 750/3300 setup, despite a 10-row cooler. However, the engine's only got 23 hrs and still on the break-in 50w oil. I'll go to the 15-50 at 25 hrs, if things don't improve after that, I'm considering some sort of additional cooling and wondered how your idea panned out?
Steve, I think you made the right choice with the Sonex plenums. I've never had confidence in the Jabiru version, they work in the XL, but there are better solutions. My setup is a variation of the Jabiru and Sonex plenums and I will be making some modifications once I get the airplane to Bend. Hasta la vista!
Steve, rumor has it you installed the Sonex cooling plenum. How is that working? My XL is still in Idaho and it's looking like late June to get it to Bend. I've been saying for how may years that we would go flying ;-)
Last post I saw you were tearing down your Jabiru with the plan on rebuilding. The recent post used the term "brand new" ? Is there a reason for this change in direction or did you mean "newly rebuilt" ?
Steve, it is good to have it flying. The videos I posted were from early October. I've been trying to get back and fly off the 40 and then move it to Astoria. I have a few more modifications to do to the FWF and have a canopy idea I want to tinker with, but that has to wait until I get it home.
Thank you for your quick Sunday aft response. I have learned a tremendous amount from members like yourself. Every little bit of help brings me closer to fun flights like you discuss. Best to you, Jerry
My apology for asking a question that you discussed previously. Where do you have fuselage static ports on your 601, Both sides or only 1 and what did you use to create the port itself?
I am building 650, plan to use Dynon180 or Skyview.
I will keep track of info better this time if you are so kind to answer. Jerry Ebke
Thanks for the link to the sun blind shade for the CH601. Its so hot you drink lots of water from the bottles..then you need to land...my CH601 has 6 hrs fuel....but I only have a 4 hr bladder ! ;>) Beside being bald I really need to keep my head out of the sun.
Thanks for your comment on my photo.
Yes that lock wiring was frustrating at first but once I figured out the best technique, a few feet of wire an 3 coffee's later, it was a piece of cake. I think that those who didn't do it need to consider how dead they will be if the cap screws come loose.
After your upgrade, have you noticed any more smoking rivets?
Steve, as an Experimental I'll have to do 40 hours. Mack only had to do 5 hours as an ELSA, same as you right? The DAR was very generous with my flight test area and gave me a 100 statute mile radius, just need to avoid the Boise, MHAFB and Twin Falls airports.
Steve, I did get your drift on the front bearing wear, but I thought that adding a nylon bearing to match the rear would be a good thing. It does make for smoother action. I've added 1/16" nylon to my next order will use behind the shim along with some grease.
I posted this as a reply to your comment on my blog.
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