I saw a picture of Conrad Watters 750.  It looks pretty good.

Thanks for the reply Leo.  It looks like we are both right and the Homebuilt Help video that I used as a guide has it wrong.

Now I can work on replacing clecos with rivets before the snow flies here in Iowa.

Best Wishes ...  Fred

I meant "drawback to having the gear channel flange outside of the fuselage"

Hi Leo

How did you fix the "arm rest interference" problem? 

I had the same situation and fixed it by clecoing the aft flange of the gear channel under the rear fuse instead of inside.  That brought the rear of the arm rest sides down to fit perfectly.  And I didn't need to use brute force to place the seat bases between the rear seat channels and the lower baggage floor.

Now I am trying to determine if there is any downside to having the gear channel flange inside the fuselage so I can start drilling out and riveting.

I will appreciate any information.

Added a discussion about the Jabiru that might answer some of your questions about it.  Feel free to contact me for any add'l info.

Leo,

Deburring is important but check out this tool, it may make the process much easier: http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm?viewfrom=13&catid=334&step=2

The tool deburrs both sides of the hole at once.

Mike Ice

Ditto Leo on the Demo ride on that Friday for me. Most impressive was the stall characteristic - flat and gentle - I wouldn't have know if he didn't tell me we were going down (pays to watch the altimeter).
I finished inventory last nite and have all the parts in separate kits...finally.
Joe

Leo ,
The stretch through North west Ontario looks like it will need a way point at Fort Francis --for sure.
So far I have flown with Angus in his 750 for 3+ hours.It is very responsive and feels particularly solid ---for a fellow who has enjoyed flying Challengers for the last 10 yrs.
Conrad
no doubt you have seen Angus' pirep

Leo,

I only prime the mating surfaces
Robert

Leo I do not see my reply re: corrosion protection.
Yes I will be covering any and all exposed metal. My plan is to be on floats in fresh water. Ultimately I would like to fly to all coasts --east, west and perhaps north, if I can manage it. Conrad

Hi Leo,

I have heard there is differences from one MDRA inspector to another. I know a fellow who built an RV9 and did very little corrosion protection and it was inspected and passed. RVs are 2024 which is more prone to corrosion than 6061. We, after lots of discussion and research, decided not to bother with primer. We live in an extremely dry climate (S Alberta).
Regards,
Joe

Hi Leo. Yes we are priming all interior surfaces. I see that you are as well. Messy stuff isnt it.

After trying different methods, finally found system that works well. Using Zinc Chromate cut 1 part to 2 parts zxylene. Surface prep is simply soap and water and a scotch brite pad to remove the oxidation. Quick wipe with acetone to remove any grease from fingers.

Applying the zinc chromate with a folded over paper towel (shop grade)

The zinc chromate bonds instantly to prepped metal and have used less than 1/2 gallon for two planes and most of it is on shop towels so minimal weight increase.

I do a quick wipe on mating surfaces and main structural elements prior to riveting.

Hope this helps and good luck with the build.
omate