Hmm, for some reason when I use the 3.2mm (1/8") router radius bit on my 1/4" plate, I get a big flat spot between the rounded bits... confused. No more time this weekend, will try to work out what's happening.
I'm having one more attempt at reinforcing my home-built bending brake to do my own spar flanges, although Dave (another scratch builder who just ordered his plans yesterday) told me he has a friend with a monster 4m brake in Brisbane as a backup plan.
I've bought a 3m galvanised steel window lintel and some lengths of 1/4" 2024-T3 plate that I'm going to radius with the router and bolt onto the lintel - this is my new top clamp for the brake. I've straightened up the edge of my bench with a straight edge and thickened epoxy, and I'm welding reinforcements onto the swiveling bit to make it stiffer.
For the flute recesses I used a round file and finished with 60 grit paper - on maple forms with a good file it is a really quick and pleasant way to do it. George reckons Portugal make the best files - I can recommend the set he sold to me.
From Austools - tell George that it's the one Robin asked for, and that I haven't forgotten I'm supposed to return that socket attachment he gave me to try out :-). George got me my clecos and other stuff - very helpful guy, knows tool distribution scene in Australia very well, can't always match Aircraft Spruce but will try his best.
Oh and regarding the Bandsaw, I got a wood bandsaw with some speed control from Hare and Forbes - Brand is Seinsich or something. It's their mid range wood one for around $600. With an 18 TPI blade at the slowest speed it cuts Aluminium without a problem (in fact it cleans the blade if I've been cutting gummy-wood).
That said, I find I am using the scoring knife (as per the Can-Zac video) for almost all my metal cutting, and mainly use the bandsaw for cutting wood forms (maple is the nicest wood I've found for this purpose). When you cut the metal with the bandsaw you definitely get tooth marks, and you need a vixen file (another surprise - these files are a must, really quick and nice to use) to get rid of them before using the scotch-brite wheel.
Things have been going slowly the last few months - I had to repair my boat after blowing up a buoyancy tank with an air hose (aargh) and various other projects. But then the nice thing about a metal project is that everything stays as you left it. I was just cleaning up the workshop today to continue building.
I have all my rudder parts made and am starting on horizontal stabiliser parts. The major issue I have had on the scratch building project has been bending spar flanges - I have had four attempts at the rudder spar to date, tried building a longer bending brake and have come to the conclusion that if scratch building you should buy all parts with flanges in material thicker than 16 thou and longer than 4 feet (I have 4 foot brake) from Zenith. Luckily there aren't many:
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