Scratch Built Ribs - Forming leading edge of rib - Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers2024-03-29T13:41:48Zhttps://zenith.aero/forum/topics/scratch-built-ribs-forming-leading-edge-of-rib?commentId=2606393%3AComment%3A416357&feed=yes&xn_auth=noSame here on my SG Storm 400.…tag:zenith.aero,2015-11-19:2606393:Comment:4685952015-11-19T11:28:39.515ZMcDevhttps://zenith.aero/profile/mcdev
<p>Same here on my SG Storm 400. You can see that approach on wings and stabilizer/elevator</p>
<p>Same here on my SG Storm 400. You can see that approach on wings and stabilizer/elevator</p> Your flanges at the leading e…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-23:2606393:Comment:4163572015-02-23T20:11:27.979ZWilliam Dominguezhttps://zenith.aero/profile/WilliamDominguez
<p>Your flanges at the leading edge are to long. I did mine with only a few mm and I was able to bend all around the leading edge without notches. See it here;</p>
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<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107779580539465100997/Wings#5189252923810799170" target="_blank">https://picasaweb.google.com/107779580539465100997/Wings#5189252923810799170</a></p>
<p>Your flanges at the leading edge are to long. I did mine with only a few mm and I was able to bend all around the leading edge without notches. See it here;</p>
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<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107779580539465100997/Wings#5189252923810799170" target="_blank">https://picasaweb.google.com/107779580539465100997/Wings#5189252923810799170</a></p> I asked this very same questi…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-13:2606393:Comment:4141232015-02-13T22:48:46.636ZBryan Walstromhttps://zenith.aero/profile/BryanWalstrom
<p>I asked this very same question. No dumb questions here. Roger replied that it would be best to cut it clean, add the L (which will also act as a doubler).</p>
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<p>I am still deciding on which option I will take at the moment. I might try shortening the flange from 6mm to 3 -4mm and hammering another one out. Now that I know this area can simply be cut clean off... it takes some of the stress away of modifying to make it "work." (for the scratch builder).</p>
<p>I asked this very same question. No dumb questions here. Roger replied that it would be best to cut it clean, add the L (which will also act as a doubler).</p>
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<p>I am still deciding on which option I will take at the moment. I might try shortening the flange from 6mm to 3 -4mm and hammering another one out. Now that I know this area can simply be cut clean off... it takes some of the stress away of modifying to make it "work." (for the scratch builder).</p> Regarding the "L" doubler and…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-13:2606393:Comment:4141202015-02-13T22:17:38.466ZCurtis Eggenhttps://zenith.aero/profile/CurtisEggen
<p>Regarding the "L" doubler and the rivets, could one instead leave enough material to add a flange to the new, flat nose and form it over just like the rest of the rib? (Apologies if this is a dumb question - I have yet to form a part!)</p>
<p>Regarding the "L" doubler and the rivets, could one instead leave enough material to add a flange to the new, flat nose and form it over just like the rest of the rib? (Apologies if this is a dumb question - I have yet to form a part!)</p> Thanks. I may try it again be…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-13:2606393:Comment:4142862015-02-13T15:25:02.136ZBryan Walstromhttps://zenith.aero/profile/BryanWalstrom
<p>Thanks. I may try it again before going with the new option of cutting the nose off. It doesn't look all that bad I guess. I was more concerened about thr roughness of the leading edge nose. But in truth... as long as the 1/8' radius is smooth and the flanged portion is lower than the skin, I guess it doesn't matter how ugly that part is. It is NOT making contact with the skin.</p>
<p>Thanks. I may try it again before going with the new option of cutting the nose off. It doesn't look all that bad I guess. I was more concerened about thr roughness of the leading edge nose. But in truth... as long as the 1/8' radius is smooth and the flanged portion is lower than the skin, I guess it doesn't matter how ugly that part is. It is NOT making contact with the skin.</p> Bryan
Were that is a tighte…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-12:2606393:Comment:4140872015-02-12T23:32:41.478ZRobert McNaughthttps://zenith.aero/profile/RobertMcNaught
<p>Bryan</p>
<p> Were that is a tighter radius than the 701 which I built. I used mbf board hardened with loctite at the radius for my form blocks. I would suggest adding a 1/8" aluminum plate radiused and mounted to your existing block and make the part nose edge between 4mm and 6mm sticking out past the block. Try using short sample pieces to practice with. other than that your parts look perfect!</p>
<p> Rob McNaught</p>
<p>Bryan</p>
<p> Were that is a tighter radius than the 701 which I built. I used mbf board hardened with loctite at the radius for my form blocks. I would suggest adding a 1/8" aluminum plate radiused and mounted to your existing block and make the part nose edge between 4mm and 6mm sticking out past the block. Try using short sample pieces to practice with. other than that your parts look perfect!</p>
<p> Rob McNaught</p> I don't know exactly. I am no…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-11:2606393:Comment:4136642015-02-11T16:06:26.608ZBryan Walstromhttps://zenith.aero/profile/BryanWalstrom
<p>I don't know exactly. I am not an engineer. Although I like to play one in my own garage! :-)</p>
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<p> Either way of construction is said to be acceptable. I do feel that the original idea is a little more "rigid" with certain twisting forces (twisting by hand). But in the real world functionality the rib's strength is found more in "compression" and then some "tensile"? The twisting forces of the wing are absorbed by the skins and wing attach points. (Hence the upgrade to .025 on…</p>
<p>I don't know exactly. I am not an engineer. Although I like to play one in my own garage! :-)</p>
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<p> Either way of construction is said to be acceptable. I do feel that the original idea is a little more "rigid" with certain twisting forces (twisting by hand). But in the real world functionality the rib's strength is found more in "compression" and then some "tensile"? The twisting forces of the wing are absorbed by the skins and wing attach points. (Hence the upgrade to .025 on the leading edge and .040 on bottom inboard skins). So the nose at the radius doesn't offer much/if any structural support, just leads the path for the shape. Which... does have me a little concerned for installing the skins per spec. We (the scratch builder) may need to make a wooden "Go-No-Go" gauge for the pre-bent skins to ensure conformity to the radius before bringing over to the wing skeleton. Otherwise how much or how little you pull the skins over the wings will change the leading edge... "foil" as you say.</p>
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<p>(Am I correct in my thinking here? Again... I am NO engineer)</p> OK. So... it is official. Th…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-11:2606393:Comment:4136572015-02-11T14:28:21.839ZBryan Walstromhttps://zenith.aero/profile/BryanWalstrom
<p>OK. So... it is official. This is an acceptable option for scratch builders to create the ribs as per Roger. (These are his photos). This makes the rib much easier to create as well as giving a little play room when installing the wing skins later on. A quick Google search will show you that Vans RV12, Sonex, and CX4 all have a similar design in the nose ribs as well.</p>
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<p>The top measurement is 350mm from the rear flange, and bottom is 340mm from the rear flange. (to keep things…</p>
<p>OK. So... it is official. This is an acceptable option for scratch builders to create the ribs as per Roger. (These are his photos). This makes the rib much easier to create as well as giving a little play room when installing the wing skins later on. A quick Google search will show you that Vans RV12, Sonex, and CX4 all have a similar design in the nose ribs as well.</p>
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<p>The top measurement is 350mm from the rear flange, and bottom is 340mm from the rear flange. (to keep things uniform). :-) Use typical "L" as a doubler on the leading edge.</p> Just to add to some informati…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-09:2606393:Comment:4134602015-02-09T20:21:47.784ZBryan Walstromhttps://zenith.aero/profile/BryanWalstrom
<p>Just to add to some information I may have left out. The CruZer now has .025 leadng edge skins and the radius will have to be formed (to some degree anyway) before it is installed on the wing. Not during/after. The previous skins I believe was .016 and than can form to nearly anything.</p>
<p>Just to add to some information I may have left out. The CruZer now has .025 leadng edge skins and the radius will have to be formed (to some degree anyway) before it is installed on the wing. Not during/after. The previous skins I believe was .016 and than can form to nearly anything.</p> No, you will not be able to c…tag:zenith.aero,2015-02-09:2606393:Comment:4131822015-02-09T20:14:45.898ZChris Aysenhttps://zenith.aero/profile/ChrisAysen
<p>No, you will not be able to contour the nose skin properly. When I was building my 701 I annealed the nose area (everything in front the first rivet) . I cleared that process with Chris Heintz himself at Sun-N-Fun several years back.</p>
<p>Chris / 127LA</p>
<p>No, you will not be able to contour the nose skin properly. When I was building my 701 I annealed the nose area (everything in front the first rivet) . I cleared that process with Chris Heintz himself at Sun-N-Fun several years back.</p>
<p>Chris / 127LA</p>