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My R/R connector burned last week and I have been doing a lot of research on this topic. Has anyone changed their R/R from the factory supplied one to a "better" one like a Shindengen Mosfet? I have exchanged emails with a Motorcycle guy who has sold several to kit plane builders with great success. He was also a test pilot for another airplane manufacture for many years and knows our business. He had to give me the obligatory "they are not designed for aircraft" but still spoke highly of them. He recommended a 50-amp R/R even though I only have a 30-amp Stator as it will handle up to 50 amps and he says it will be easier on the Stator as well...Thoughts?
Talked to Jack today. It sounds like we need a series type regulator, not a shunting type. The SH847 is the one he suggested. This morning on a flight out over the California/Arizona desert I came to the conclusion that what ever regulator-connector set-up I have it needed improvement. UL’s do not seem to run with dead batteries. I also noticed that drivers in this part of the world do not stop to ask pilots if they need help while the pilot is working on his plane along side of a busy road two lane road. In an hour of checking connections and fiddling with the engine with the cowling off, only one person stopped, a pilot naturally.
The lack of charging may have been due to the connection, but I am ordering a new R/R with a stronger connection and a better chance avoiding future unscheduled landings. Dodging trucks with a dead engine while landing is not something I need to repeat.
I am also thinking about adding an audio alarm to my D-120 panel. Realizing that I had a charging problem sooner could have had me landing at an airport instead of a highway. Any suggestions of how to go about it would be appreciated.
Ahh, the adventures continue! Seriously, nice job getting it on the ground with no damage to anything/anybody. Post a few pics of the new setup and process. I suspect more UL Power owners will eventually be doing similar upgrade to the R/R. It's kinda of on my list once the weather gets warmer.
It appears that you used a mounting bracket instead of bolting directly to the fire wall. What was the reason? Do I need to order a bracket along with my new R/R? Wouldn’t the firewall act as a heat sink if bolted flat?
Yes, I hand bent an aluminum bracket from scrap. I wanted some offset from the firewall for heat dissipation. It is not required but was easy to bend so I added it...It also keeps the wires from resting right up at the firewall as well (easier to install and remove).
Here is a recording post install...ignore that I refer to it as the Stator by mistake.