Q&A - Zodiac 601XL -650 for the latest upgrade drawings of November 24 2009

This Q&A is for the upgrade kit of the Zodiac 601XL & 650 based on drawings of Nov. 24, 2009 and AMD Safety Alert of November 7. 2009

New drawings:
Nov. 24, 2009: We've updated the draft Drawings 6-ZU-1, 6-ZU-2, 6-ZU-3 and 6-ZU-4, and LAA Aileron Balance.

For very detailed questions (or if you must complain or vent), email me at newplane@gmail.com

Please post all your questions on the last page.

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Apparently there is concern that using the torque wrench on the other side might result in under-torquing because the bolt could be pinched and would resist turning thereby giving a faults high reading. That is what I have heard.


I am thinking of making an inspection hole below the balance weights(similar to the aileron belcrank access hole). This can be useful for inspections and for increasing the weight in case of a paint job.
Can I do this without compromising the integrety of the wing?

Yes, make the inspection hole same as the one for the bellcrank.
AD-XX Rivets
If anyone accidentally damages any of the holes that uses AD6 rivets here is a company that sell and stocks most sizes of AD8-XX rivets. Most places have a very limited selection of AD8-XX rivets.
$17.00 per pound.
Actually there are oversize rivets (drill a #5 hole), going to a 1/4" rivet might not leave good E.D. plus they are hard to shoot.
oversize rivets are NAS1242ADX_X and are available through ECAS East Coast Aircraft Supply
Unfortunately the longest length NAS1242AD Rivet they carry is -12, which is not long enough. Zenith recommended drilling them out and replacing with a AD8 rivet.
ok thanks for that I havent got my kit as yet regards Russ
Greetings Mathieu,

I see that you missed my question on January 18th?

I'm looking for an easier way to torque to the upper nuts on the wing/center spar bolts.

I'm a "back-yard-mechanic", not an engineer, but in my way of thinking -- more torque is needed
on the bolt side of a spar bold/nut application than what is recommended for the nut!

Personnel from your firm has refused to suggest a torque value needed for the head of the bolt other
than use what is recommended for the nut by the FAA publication.

So, can a couple of holes be punched (without affecting structural integrity)into the seat panel -- spar
bolt/nut areas so that it is not impossible to reach the nut with a torque wrench?

If not, what is a recommended bolt-head torque?


Hi there; You want to make some holes to be punched into the seat panel so you can get your wreanch onto
the nut? Dang, the Zenith 601 XL seat panel already has access holes in them?
You can't use a torque value for torquing a bolt head. You shouldn't tighten the bolt head, only the nut. The bolt has drag in the bolt hole and it can't really be determined. The wing bolts should be a light drive fit and the torque to rotate them is unknown and variable. They shouldn't be turned anyway. Just say "no" to turning the bolt.
Both Charles and Louis are correct. Torque the head through the access panels in the seats. It is tight but that is what we have been doing. Maybe someone can post a photo of this being done.
Mack----- Try a tool called a "torque extender" to torque in that tight area. I use torque extenders to torque the cylinder base nuts on my Franklin engine (in my old Stinson) and they are a life saver. You need to do some math to calculate the number to put into your torque wrench because you are changing the moment arm (length) of the wrench. Once you get the right setting on the torque wrench and have the right size extender on it, you can torque a nut in the darndest places.

I think, with a torque extender on a click-stop torque wrench, you could do that upper nut from inside the seat pan through the existing seat pan access panel. You will need a click-stop type because you will need to feel and hear the wrench as it reaches the setting, you will not be able to view a dial inside that space. There are also electronic beeping and vibrating torque wrenches now, come to think of it, but I like my click-stop units, simple, effective, no batteries to run down.


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