so i have been doing research on scratch building while i wait for my plans to get in... my question is based on the fact that i have never seen a full size set of plans.  when im building lets just say ribs are the plans full size???/ so would i have to trace on something like wax paper and then go from there or is it more complicated than im thinking

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Hi Josh, I am also scratch building, 701, the plans are NOT full size, page size of plans is A3.

All parts are clearly shown and dimensions are given for drawing up all your templates. So you will need some drawing equipment,good quality compass with the extension leg as some radius are quite big,protractor, french curve or flexie curve will assist you greatly.Its not rocket science, actually quite good fun drawing up all the templates and then making up the wooded form blocks.There is plenty help available on the forum, just ask,saves lots of time and money if you now sure what to do.

Do you thonk it may be possible to blow the a3 pages up on a copy machine to full size if not i guess i wi just have to figure it out

Hi you cant blow up the drawings as they are NOT to scale

Ahhh i see i better learn how to draw real quick lol
Raymond is right, if the 700 series plans are like the 600 series they give you the dementions along a x, y axis and if you can read a rule it is really quite easy. DON'T GET INTIMIDATED before you see how easy it really is (at least with the 650 that I am building). This site and Zenith are both a great help., has a great beginners video that basically walks you through how to layout, cut, build forms, form and much more. The video is called "Metalworking 101", it helped me a LOT and I was like you or worse when I started. Good luck with your build.

Dont even think about looking through the entire plans all at once.  I did that when mine came and I was so over whelmed.  (spelling?)

Hi Josh. The plans are not full size nor they should be, moist on the paper or printer settings could cause distortions to your plans. Even when you plot on the wood forms and just let them sit for few weeks, they may shrink or expand up to 3mm which is way over the tolerances stated on CS. I usually cut the forming blocks and mold the parts right away. All and all scratch building is great fun but it's tuff love too. It requires dedication, ability to solve problems and more importantly, a whole lot of EAAers  ready to pitch in and rescue you when you get stuck. ( I couldn't do it without them). I wouldn't count on big savings because of plans building. Mistakes, even though they tend to come less often as you proceed with your project, cost money. Tools, aluminum sheet fabricated parts, hardware. It all cost money. But it' well worth it when you see your finished part made of a few rolls of aluminum, rivets and a lot of sweat. Have fun with your plans.

hi josh   i used a good quality plywood with a birch finish sheet on top - 3/4'' . it was like drawing on paper so i could use a sharp pencil to get a fine line . then i laid out the points in the plans called a table of offsets . now if you know a boat designer/builder and can borrow his drafting ducks and  an assortment of wood battens , which will give you a propper fair curve , you'r lucky . to diy try tapping in finishing nails next to the dots on the inside of the curve . for a batten i used a length of aluminum sheet . try different thicknesses and widths ie. 1/16'' thick 1'' wide until you get a fair curve . to hold the batten next to the finishing nail i put in a second nail on the otherside of the dot , or you might have some heavy wieghts that will work . i sawed close to the line and finished with a table bet sander .  as you get into it you will realize no two scratch built sets of wings will be the same so don't get too stressed and just make sure there are no hard turns in the curve . there was no builders site or or eaaers in the neighborhood when i did mine . this part of the build is being creative fun . an area where i saved was in my engine program . i've rebuilt a c-85 and having years to watch for deals on barnstormers etc. i have a good quality near zero timed aircraft engine for 7000

The plans are not full scale.  The measurements are provided in metric.  One of the first things I did with my plans was to go through them and convert all the metric values to English.  I have never really learned to think in metric.  On curved shapes like ribs, you'll be given "stations" along a center line and distance to the edge from each station.  Maybe by the time you see this you'll have your plans and it will be obvious.

Hello Josh

  I've been plans building my 601xlb for five years and planning on finishing this coming year. My day job is spent building jigs and fixtures. When I first got my plans I started to convert metric to decimal but quickily gave it up as it doesnt convert cleanly. Now a few thousands here and there isnt a big deal but over a period of time they can add up and bite you. I suggest just getting a metric tape and using it. The only time I went decimal was in AutoCad to use the company laser in cutting out templates. kinda cheating but works great. Anything you don't want to fab up you can buy from Zenith. The one thing I wouldn't do is make your small parts first. There will be screw ups along the way and big part screw ups can be used to make small parts.  

Sorry I gave you some bum information before. The video I should have refered you to is "Scratch Building Basics for Metal Aircraft". This video from takes you through layout, making forms, different tools, methods and making parts, wing ribs, rudder ribs and spar, flanging etc.

Again, sorry about giving you the other title. I just realized my mistake. Good luck with your project.
EAA has free videos on home building. Look for them on upper left of home page.


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