A question for all you scratch builders....just curious. What kind of cutting tools are you using for some of the higher thickness metals, say, .063 and greater?

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I use a band saw or hand held jig saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the thicker material to rough size. If the shape permits I then use a disk sander to finish the piece to size. If there are portions that I can't get to with the sander I then use a file. I have photos on my page showing what I'm describing.

I am not scratch building for my Zenith project but have had to cut heavy stock aluminum for many projects over the decades. I am with Earnest -- band saw and/or a hand held jig saw/sabre saw, fine tooth blade in each case. To finish the cuts (always do the power saw cut a bit larger than than the final cut) you can use any suitable sanding device (disc, belt or drum sander, handheld or bench mounted) and/or flat and rounded files. If the surface is not going to be painted be sure to protect it from being scratched by the cutting machine (especially hand held jig saws and sabre saws). Do whatever it takes to protect the surface - duct tape, masking tape, contact paper, whatever. If you are gonna paint it that caution is not really needed, just burnish out any scratches you may put on the surface and then paint.

Hi David,

A good band saw with BIG TEETH so the aluminum dont get caught in between...

Alway rough cut first and finish with a band sander. My 2 cents...

Regards,

Norm

Hey David,

My 2 cents, I use a skill saw to rough cut and a band saw to final cut.  I use a wood band saw with an 18 TPI blade.  If I have multiple pieces I rough cut with a skill saw, cut close with band saw then make a wooden form and use a router with flush bit to make all identical pieces.    (2 sided carpet tape has worked well for me holding material to the form).  When using the band saw I put a piece of wood under the aluminumn and go slow, it helps to keep the blade from loading up.  WARNINING WATCH KICKBACK & CHIPS FLYING WITH BOTH THE ROUTER AND SKILL SAW!

+1 for Tim's comments, I used the router technique for my slat supports and flaperon arms. Like Tim said, be careful and rough cut as close to the wooden form as possible using a bandsaw or jigsaw before using the router, less chance for kickbacks.

Thanks, everyone, for your quick responses! You gave me ideas I hadn't considered. Personally, I have been using a Dremel tool with cutting wheels, but I have gone through a bunch of them as they wear out or break too quickly. I have a low-end band saw and I'm afraid I would be taxing the limits of it, but I may give it a try. I like the idea of a jig saw/router combination. I appreciate all the ideas!!

I, too, have one of those "low-end" band saws like you get at the big box stores for ~ $100+.  It came with a wood-cutting blade and I bought a metal cutting blade, but never installed it ... the wood cutting blade works great on aluminum. Another tip is to occasionally lubricate the blade when cutting aluminum by getting an old candle and holding it against the blade's sides for a couple of seconds.

John

It all depends on how many parts you need.

I have scroll saw for cutting 0.125, 0.093, and 0.063.  After cutting them out, I'll sand the parts to final size.  I put wax on the scroll saw blade, and put wax on the cutting line.

I've been able make straight cuts through 0.063 with my Olfa knife.  I'll make 40-50 passes with knife before trying to bending it.

When I need multiple parts, I'll make a forming block and use a router too.  A shop vacuum is a must.

I used a reasonable priced ryobi hand held jig saw using the metal fine tooth blade along with an alumimium cutting lubricant. Did a great job for me and leaves a very fine cutting finish which is quickly cleaned up with a file or sander. 

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